Clarence House Estate Reserve Pinot Noir / 2023 / 750mL

The Clarence House Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2023 is a cool-climate Tasmanian red from Clarence Plains in the Coal River Valley. Present owner David Kilpatrick first planted vines on the north-east slopes of the property in 1998. Located in the foothills of the Meehand Ranges, halfway between Hobart and the Coal Valley, Clarence House Estate sits in a unique location atop Jurassic dolerite and basalt soils with low annual rainfall. The majority of the fruit was destemmed for wild fermentation with a small portion of whole bunches for perfume and structure. 

A pinot typified by perfume, spice, nuanced tannin and freshness. Medium bodied, with concentration of fruit tempered by fine structure. Aromatics lead with morello cherry, rosehip and a little crushed raspberry, then a savoury turn towards clove, dried thyme and forest floor. The palate follows through with red and black cherry fruit, a thread of blood orange, and a gently earthy, almost mushroomy edge that gives the wine its Coal River Valley stamp.

Tannins are fine and powdery, closing the wine off neatly rather than gripping, and the acidity keeps everything taut through a long, faintly peppery finish. There is real depth here for a medium-weight red, and the fruit sits comfortably within the structure rather than spilling over it.

Serve at around 16°C, and decant for half an hour if you are opening it in the next year or two. It works beautifully with duck breast, mushroom risotto, roast pork with fennel, or a plate of Tasmanian salmon done rare. The Reserve Pinot Noir 2023 is drinking well now and should reward cellaring through to about 2031.