Grey Sands Pinot Noir / 2012 / 750mL

The Grey Sands Pinot Noir 2012 from Glengarry in northern Tasmania is a savoury, tightly wound Pinot that has had the better part of a decade to soften and open out. Cool-climate fruit sits alongside forest-floor and dried-spice characters that only come with age.

Aromatically it leans autumnal — macerated red cherry, rhubarb, dried orange peel and a touch of mushroom and undergrowth. There's a lick of black tea and something faintly medicinal in the best Pinot way, the kind of complexity that arrives rather than being made.

On the palate the wine is medium-bodied and quite firm, with fine, drying tannins and the bright acid line Tasmania reliably delivers. Sour cherry and cranberry carry through the middle, the texture is silky without being soft, and the finish is long, earthy and dry rather than fruit-sweet.

Pour it with duck, roast quail, mushroom risotto or a plate of jamón and aged pecorino. It also handles roast pork belly and lentil dishes well, and it is worth decanting for twenty minutes or so to let the older fruit stretch.

Drinking well now and through to around 2028, though there is no urgency if your cellar is cool and steady.