Il Paradiso di Frassina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG / 2019 / 750mL

The Il Paradiso di Frassina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2019 is a Sangiovese from Montalcino in Tuscany, built along classic lines: red-fruited, savoury and firm rather than plush. It has the grip and fragrance that make Brunello worth waiting for, and 2019 was a kind season in Montalcino, giving fruit that ripened evenly and kept its acidity.

Sour cherry and dried cranberry lead the aromatics, with tobacco leaf, wild fennel and a dusty, almost terracotta earthiness underneath. The palate follows through with red plum and blood orange, while a thread of dried herbs and cured meat keeps the fruit from ever feeling sweet.

Tannins are fine-grained but plentiful, drawing in across the middle of the mouth and framing a long, faintly bitter finish in the way good Sangiovese should. Acidity is bright and keeps everything upright, so the wine feels medium-bodied and taut rather than heavy. Give it an hour in a decanter and it opens considerably.

Serve at around 17 degrees with bistecca, slow-braised beef cheeks, wild mushroom risotto or aged pecorino. The Brunello di Montalcino 2019 is approachable now with air, though it will be better from 2027 and should hold comfortably through to the late 2030s from a well-kept cellar.