Podere Le Ripi 'Cielo d'Ulisse' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG / 2018 / 750mL

Podere Le Ripi 'Cielo d'Ulisse' Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018 is a Sangiovese from Montalcino in Tuscany that leans towards perfume and line rather than sheer power. Expect sour cherry, dried rose and a savoury earthiness, carried on the firm acidity that marks the best wines of this hill town.

The nose opens slowly: red cherry and cranberry first, then dried herbs, orange peel and a faint suggestion of woodsmoke and forest floor. Air brings out something floral and slightly balsamic. On the palate the fruit is red rather than black, bright and taut, with tea leaf and crushed stone running underneath.

Tannins are fine-grained and persistent, gripping the sides of the mouth without drying it out, and the acidity keeps everything upright through a long, faintly bitter finish of bitter cherry and dried thyme. Medium-bodied, more sinewy than plush, and the sort of Brunello that gains flesh with a couple of hours in the decanter.

Decant an hour ahead and serve at around 16-18°C in a generous glass. Bistecca, slow-cooked lamb shoulder, mushroom risotto or a wedge of aged pecorino all work. Drinking well from now, with the structure to develop through to about 2033.