Kellybrook Edenesque Pinot Noir / 2024 / 750mL

The Kellybrook Edenesque Pinot Noir 2024 is a bright, medium-bodied Yarra Valley Pinot Noir built around red fruit and savoury lift rather than depth of colour or weight. Kellybrook draws its Edenesque Pinot Noir from the cooler upper reaches of the Yarra Valley, and the wine has the perfume and acidity that altitude tends to bring.

Raspberry and small red cherry lead the aroma, with strawberry leaf, dried thyme and a faint forest-floor earthiness underneath. Air brings out something floral, closer to violet than rose, along with a light dusting of baking spice.

The palate is fine-boned and quietly persistent, red-fruited through the middle with tannins that sit soft and powdery rather than firm. Acidity runs clean down the centre of the wine and keeps the finish long and dry, with a savoury, almost briny note that lingers after the fruit fades.

Serve it with a light chill alongside roast duck, mushroom risotto, char siu pork or a plate of charcuterie. Salmon and tuna both work well, as does anything with beetroot or fresh cherries on the plate.

Drinking well now and worth another three to four years in a cool cellar, where the red fruit will settle into more savoury, undergrowth territory. Decant a young bottle for twenty minutes if you are opening it tonight.