David Duband Nuits-Saint-Georges / 2015 / 750mL

The David Duband Nuits-Saint-Georges 2015 is a village-level Pinot Noir from the Côte de Nuits with real muscle behind its perfume. It is dark-fruited and firmly built, a wine that rewards a decanter and a bit of patience rather than a quick pour.

Red cherry, blackberry and cranberry lead the aromatics, with violets, liquorice and a twist of black pepper that comes from the generous proportion of whole bunches used in the ferment in 2015. Air brings out something earthier underneath — dried herbs, forest floor, a hint of iron.

The palate is tightly wound and pure, with the sappy red-fruit line running straight through the middle. Tannins are substantial and spread across the finish without hardness, and the acidity keeps a warm, ripe season in balance. This is Nuits-Saint-Georges in its more serious register: savoury, long and built to unwind slowly.

Serve it with duck breast, roast pigeon, mushroom risotto or slow-cooked beef cheek. Aged comté or a washed-rind cheese will also do the trick once the bottle has been open an hour or two.

Drinking well from now through to around 2032, with the structure to hold longer in good cellar conditions. Decant an hour ahead if you are opening it young.