O'Leary Walker Polish Hill Riesling Museum Release / 2013 / 750mL

The O'Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling Museum Release 2013 is a matured Clare Valley Riesling with a decade or so of bottle age behind it, and it shows in the glass as green-gold rather than pale straw. Age has softened the young wine's edges without touching its drive.

Lime remains the anchor on the nose, but it has moved from fresh juice towards lime marmalade and preserved lemon, with buttered toast, dried honeysuckle and a whiff of kerosene sitting behind. The palate follows with mandarin peel, quince and a chalky, slate-like character that Polish Hill River fruit tends to hold onto.

Dry and taut, the 2013 carries a fine line of acid that keeps everything tight through the middle, while bottle age has added a waxy, almost lanolin texture across the tongue. The finish is long, savoury and dusted with citrus pith rather than sweetness.

Pour it alongside Sydney rock oysters with a squeeze of lemon, salt and pepper squid, or a roast chicken with plenty of thyme. Aged Riesling also handles richer Asian dishes well — think Hainanese chicken rice or a mild green curry — where the acid cuts through and the toasty notes echo the spice.

Drinking beautifully now and worth opening over the next five to eight years, though there is no urgency if it has been stored cool.