La Visciola 'Vicinale' Cesanese del Piglio DOCG 2024 is a medium-bodied red from the hills of Lazio, made from the region's own Cesanese variety. Perfumed and savoury rather than plush, it leans on wild red fruit and dried herbs in the way good central Italian reds tend to.
The nose opens with sour cherry, pomegranate and crushed raspberry, edged with rosemary, black tea and a faintly smoky, volcanic-soil character. Air brings out dried violets and a peppery lift.
On the palate the fruit is bright and a little tart in the best sense, carried by fine, slightly grippy tannins and fresh acidity. There is no excess weight here — the texture is light-footed and gently chalky, finishing dry with an earthy, herbal echo that lingers longer than the modest body suggests.
Cesanese is a food wine before anything else. Pour it with Roman classics — cacio e pepe, amatriciana, saltimbocca — or with roast lamb and rosemary, porchetta, grilled mushrooms or a plate of aged pecorino. A half hour in the fridge before serving does it no harm at all on a warm evening.
Drink from now through to around 2029, with the freshest, most floral expression in the first two or three years.
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