The Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre 2023 is a taut, finely built Chardonnay from one of Chablis' most admired premier cru slopes, and the domaine's largest cuvée. It pairs the generosity of the 2023 season with the chalky tension that makes Montée de Tonnerre worth the wait.
White flowers and citrus peel lead the aromatics, with pear, white peach and a crushed-shell edge underneath. The palate is fuller than you might expect from Chablis, ripe stone fruit carried on a line of lemony acid, with a subtle savoury, lees-derived depth through the middle.
Structurally this is the wine's strength: medium to full bodied, yet drawn tight, with salinity and a fine, almost powdery texture running to a long, gently expansive finish. The 2023 growing season was a wet and generous one in Chablis, with near-perfect flowering setting a very large crop, and careful picking here has kept ripeness and acidity in balance rather than letting fruit weight take over.
Oysters and raw scallops are the classic call, but the extra flesh in this vintage handles more: roast chicken, turbot with beurre blanc, or a plate of Comté and walnuts.
Approachable now with an hour in a decanter, though the Raveneau Montée de Tonnerre typically rewards patience. Drink from 2027 through to 2038.
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