Ardbeg Dolce Scotch Whisky / 700mL

Ardbeg Dolce is a single malt Scotch whisky from Islay, bottled at 47.8% in a 700mL bottle. It carries the peat smoke Islay is known for, but leans towards the sweeter, richer end of the island's style rather than pure austerity.

The nose opens with woodsmoke and salted toffee, then shifts towards dark chocolate, stewed plum and a waft of charred pine. Water brings out something close to burnt caramel and sea spray. On the palate there is a thick, almost syrupy sweetness that meets the smoke head on, with espresso, treacle and a bitter cocoa edge running underneath.

At 47.8% the whisky has real presence without heat getting in the way. The texture is oily and coating, the mid-palate broad, and the finish long and ashy, with that sweetness receding slowly and leaving peat, liquorice and a saline tang behind. Tannic grip keeps it from turning cloying.

Pour it neat in a tulip glass and give it a few minutes to settle, then add a drop or two of water if you want the sweeter aromatics to lift. It works beside dark chocolate, blue cheese or a strong coffee after dinner, and stands up well to smoked oysters. An opened bottle will hold its character for a year or more.