Lackner Tinnacher Ried Steinbach Sauvignon Blanc / 2023 / 750mL

The Lackner Tinnacher Ried Steinbach Sauvignon Blanc 2023 is a taut, mineral-driven white from Südsteiermark in southern Austria, built on citrus and green herb rather than tropical fruit. Styrian Sauvignon Blanc at this level is closer in spirit to the Loire than to Marlborough, and this bottling makes that case clearly.

Grapefruit pith, lemon zest and white nectarine come first, with a leafy, almost nettle-like edge behind them and a faint chalky, smoky character that lingers in the glass as it warms.

The palate is dry and tightly wound, with a fine line of acidity running from front to back and a slightly saline grip through the middle. There is more texture here than the aroma suggests — a gentle waxiness that fills out the mid-palate — before the finish narrows again into stony, citrus-pith length.

Pair it with grilled whiting, oysters with a squeeze of lemon, asparagus and poached egg, or a goat's cheese salad with green herbs. It also handles white asparagus and spring vegetable dishes that defeat most whites.

Drink the Ried Steinbach Sauvignon Blanc 2023 from now through to around 2030. It is open enough to enjoy this summer, though another year or two in the cellar will soften the acid line and bring the mineral side further forward. Serve it cool rather than cold, around 10–12°C.