Fraser Gallop Parterre Chardonnay / 2024 / 750mL

The Fraser Gallop Parterre Chardonnay 2024 is a tightly drawn white from Margaret River, built on citrus and struck-flint restraint rather than ripe tropical fruit. It is a Chardonnay for drinkers who want line and length ahead of richness.

Grapefruit pith, white nectarine and lemon curd lead the aroma, with a chalky, almost savoury edge sitting underneath. There is a faint smokiness that lifts as the wine opens in the glass.

The palate is lean in the best sense, with white peach and green apple carried on a firm acid spine. Texture builds through the middle without ever turning broad, and the finish is long, dry and faintly saline, leaving the mouth clean and asking for another sip.

Serve it with grilled Western Australian marron, scallops in brown butter, chicken poached with tarragon, or a round of washed-rind cheese. It also handles richer fish dishes such as kingfish with fennel and lemon without being swamped.

Drink now through to around 2032. The 2024 is approachable young if you give it twenty minutes out of the fridge, though the acidity suggests it will reward five or six years in a cool, dark spot, where the citrus should soften into something nuttier and more complex.