Laroche Reserve Chardonnay / 2024 / 750mL

The Laroche Reserve Chardonnay 2024 is a dry white from Chablis in northern Burgundy, where Chardonnay takes on a leaner, flintier shape than it does further south. Expect citrus and crushed stone rather than ripe stone fruit or sweetness.

Lemon, green apple and a touch of white flower come first, with the chalky, almost struck-match character that marks good Chablis. There is a subtle creaminess underneath, but the fruit stays taut and the aromatics stay clean.

On the palate the wine is medium-bodied and tightly drawn, with a line of fresh acidity running the length of it. The texture is fine rather than plush, and the finish is dry, saline and lingering, leaving the mouth refreshed rather than coated.

Oysters are the obvious call, and a good one, but the Laroche Reserve Chardonnay also handles grilled whiting, prawns with garlic and parsley, chicken poached with tarragon, or a wedge of young goat's cheese. Serve it cool but not frozen, around 10 to 12 degrees, so the texture has room to show.

Drinking well now and over the next four to five years, with the acidity in this 2024 Chablis suggesting it will build a little more breadth and nutty complexity if you leave a bottle or two alone.