La Chablisienne Chablis / 2023 / 750mL

La Chablisienne Chablis 2023 is a dry, mineral-driven white Burgundy made from Chardonnay grown across the Chablis appellation. It is the classic expression of the region: lean, bright and more about line and clarity than ripeness or weight.

The nose leans citrus — lemon pith, green apple skin — with a chalky, almost flinty edge sitting underneath. There is a faint white blossom lift as it opens in the glass, and nothing in the way of tropical fruit.

On the palate it is taut and precise, with acidity running the length of the wine and a saline, stony quality through the middle. The texture is fine rather than broad, and the finish is dry and clean, closing on grapefruit and wet stone. Serve it cool but not frozen, around 10 degrees, so the fruit has room to show.

Chablis and oysters is a pairing that needs no defending, and this one handles natives, Sydney rocks and a squeeze of lemon with ease. Beyond shellfish, try it with grilled whiting, chicken terrine, goat's cheese on toast, or a simple roast chicken with plenty of tarragon.

Drinking well from now through to around 2029, with the acid structure to carry it. Younger bottles reward a little air; later ones will show more of the nutty, honeyed character that comes with age.