Mollydooker The Maitre D Cabernet Sauvignon / 2021 / 750mL

The Mollydooker The Maitre D' Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 is a generous, full-bodied McLaren Vale red built on dark fruit and warmth rather than restraint. It carries the ripeness you expect from the region while keeping cabernet's firm spine through the middle.

Blackcurrant and plum lead the aromatics, with cassis, dried herbs and a lick of dark chocolate sitting behind. There is a leafy, almost minty edge that lifts the fruit and stops the richness from turning heavy.

The palate is broad and plush, with ripe tannins that grip gently at the back and a line of acidity that keeps things moving. Flavours run to mulberry, black olive and cocoa, finishing long and savoury with a touch of sweet spice. The 2021 vintage was a kind one across South Australia, with mild conditions through ripening, and that shows here as even fruit and tannins that feel polished rather than drying.

Pour it alongside a rib eye off the barbecue, slow-cooked lamb shoulder with rosemary, or a wedge of aged cheddar. Rich, meaty dishes stand up well to the wine's weight, and a few leafy herbs in the cooking will echo what is going on in the glass.

Drinking well now and over the next six to eight years, with decanting recommended if you are opening a bottle young.