Pol Roger Brut / NV / 750mL

Pol Roger Brut NV is a classic non-vintage Champagne built on precision rather than power, with the fine, persistent bead the house is known for. It sits in that satisfying middle ground between crisp aperitif styles and richer, more autolytic Champagnes.

The nose leads with white peach, lemon pith and green apple, with pastry and toasted almond sitting underneath. Air brings a touch of honeysuckle and a chalky, almost mineral edge.

On the palate it is dry and tightly knit, the mousse creamy enough to soften a firm line of citrus acidity. There is more weight here than the aroma suggests, with a gentle nutty depth through the middle and a clean, dry finish that runs long and leaves the mouth refreshed.

Pour it cold as an aperitif, or serve it with Sydney rock oysters, prawn cutlets, smoked salmon blinis or a plate of sashimi. It also handles richer fare well — roast chicken, mushroom risotto or a soft, bloomy-rind cheese such as brie.

Drinking beautifully now and across the next three to five years if kept lying down somewhere cool and dark. A little time in the cellar tends to soften the citrus and bring the toasty, bready characters further forward, so it is worth buying a second bottle to leave alone.