Champagne Laurent Perrier La Cuvée / NV / 750mL

Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée NV is a non-vintage Champagne built on a high proportion of Chardonnay, and it shows in the glass as something pale, fine-boned and bright rather than rich. This is Champagne in its crisp, aperitif register, with clarity and lift rather than weight.

The nose leads with white peach, lemon pith and fresh pear, backed by delicate florals and a gentle hint of brioche that suggests time spent on lees. Citrus zest carries through as the glass warms, along with a chalky, almost mineral edge.

On the palate La Cuvée is dry and precise, the mousse fine and persistent, with green apple and grapefruit running the length of the wine. Acidity is firm but polished, giving the Champagne a taut line through the middle before a clean, saline finish that lingers without any heaviness. Texture comes from the bubble rather than any sense of richness, which is part of its charm.

Serve it well chilled with Sydney rock oysters, scallop crudo, tempura prawns or a plate of good jamón. It also handles roast chicken and soft, young cheeses with ease, and works beautifully as a pre-dinner pour.

Drinking well now and over the next four to five years, though a year or two in a cool, dark spot will soften the acid line and build a little more toast.